Hardware

It took "couple" iterations on Apple to realize they'll must add a password manager to their mobile operating system.

Next Monday, iOS 18 will be released with one. It's called "Passwords":

As I already have a password manager, this isn't a big deal. However, this new password-thingie extends functionality beyond passwords and has something The World has never seen: Possibility to edit Passkeys. (Anti-climatic, huh!)

Taking a closer look, this is what the password-app contains:

Further dill-down on (the never-seen-before) Passkeys:

See how many dupes I have for https://webauthn.io/!
Three years back, I wrote a piece about Passkeys and it required a lot of research, testing and snooping around. Toying around throw-away Passkeys resulted in lot of junk, it seems.

While muttering "my precious", Yubico declared all information on existing passkeys a state secret. After the first one's example all other major Passkeys-providers like Appe and Google followed suit. They hid Passkeys well out of your reach.
I really never got the logic behind that. Why is it not allowed to see your own passkeys? Maybe if your security device is lost, also the criminals can see the list of your passkeys? Puzzling.

Finally I can get rid of all test junk. It took unbelievebly long to get this feature. However, I love the fact it is there.

My previous post was about 10+ year old laptops. At that time Broadcom ruled the chipset Wifi chipset market.

Since those days balance has shifted. Today, most common chipset for Wifi is Realtek. I also have couple Mediatek Wi-Fi chips working perfectly with Linux.  To repeat what I said previously: These guys have their Linux support via open-source drivers. Broadcom doesn't. Hm. I dunno, maybe that's what made them decline and the other guy thrive? Most certainly, I wish it was their open-source support. 😁

So, my old laptop lost wireless connecitivy and I needed SOMETHING, to get the thing going to The Internet. I happened to have a brand new USB-stick on a test drive. As there aren't many Linux-supported chipsets, most USB-sticks won't work with 802.11ax / Wi-Fi 6 and you have to settle for slower speeds combined with less security. This product is supposed to beat compeition on that.

Spoiler: I doesn't! (yet)

The product is BrosTrend AX1. The speed rating is AX1800 and it's supposed to be WiFi 6 Linux Compatible WiFi Adapter:

lsusb information:

Bus 001 Device 013: ID 0bda:b832 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. 802.11ac WLAN Adapter
Device Descriptor:
  bLength                18
  bDescriptorType         1
  bcdUSB               2.00
  bDeviceClass            0 [unknown]
  bDeviceSubClass         0 [unknown]
  bDeviceProtocol         0 
  bMaxPacketSize0        64
  idVendor           0x0bda Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
  idProduct          0xb832 802.11ac WLAN Adapter
  bcdDevice            0.00
  iManufacturer           1 Realtek
  iProduct                2 802.11ac WLAN Adapter

Btw. See how USB-idenfication is for 802.11ac. Confusing, that.

At this point, there is no pre-baked Linux kernel module. You can build one in a jiffy. Source code is at https://github.com/morrownr/rtl8852bu. Getting that C-code to work in your favor, after git clone, you need to run ./install-driver.sh. This script does a lot for you. At end, the script even stealthily copies the kernel module into proper directory to make loading the driver very easy. This is confusing and not all module builds do the install without asking.

When I modprobe 8852bu on Fedora 40, module does little bit of whining, but comes up. For the crash I sent some information to author: https://github.com/morrownr/rtl8852bu/issues/38

On my laptop, connection to 802.11ac / Wi-Fi 5 works ok. I suspect, there is something off with WPA3 as connections to 802.11ax / Wi-Fi 6 simply keep asking for network password in a forever loop. But hey! It worked. I got to The Net and was able to fix things. The thought of 802.11ax support is left unanswered. If USB-information doesn't state 802.11ax either, does the stick really support it or not? I dunno.

I'm hoping, WPA3-issue would be fixed one day, so that I'd be able to join any network of my choosing, not the one the device is capable of going.

Few years ago I got interested in hieroglyphs ... erhm. SD-card markings. My piece about them is here.

Now that we have established the fact that I have too many SD-cards, where do I store them? Well. I didn't. They where around equipment, desk and shelves all around the clutter. There was a point in time, I decided to do something about it.

This is my recent storage solution:

This type of case isn't available easily. It took me a while to hunt down such an item from a Chinese on-line shop. I wanted one with enough capacity for the future. Also, I wanted one that won't break or get lost easily.

This one meets the spec. Also, I went further and pimped it with appropriate labels:

There is a tiny piece of paper to translate the numbers into real-life meanings. It's simply omitted from the pic.

Now I know where my RasPi OS-images and photos are. No need to go finding the cards anymore!

Remember this one?

My new utility meter has an RJ-12 in the bottom of the unit. Naming of this port is really weird as it is called HAN, P1, HAN/P1 or P1/HAN. In Norway the port is RJ-45 and they call it HAN, for Home Area Network.Original RJ-12 from Netherlands was called P1, which is short for ... P1? I dunno! Just to be safe, manufacturers combine those two. In reality they just add to confusion.

Assuming, one wanted to see in detail how much energy is created by solar panels on the roof and combine that information with data from electricity utility meter, it would be possible to see how much money is being saved with the panels. Having detailed information on how regular household utilized electricity is a nice side effect of that.

Now that we're in Finland (not Norway, not Nethernalds), the regulation is from SESKO and in section 4.6 Physical Interface is as follows:

The RJ12 connector (6P6C connector) is used as the physical interface and the interface meets the requirements of "P1 Companion Standard".

Further, the mentioned document is from Netherlands and describes the physical interface:

Now two things need to happen:

1. Utility company needs to enable the P1/HAN -port. The port is disabled by default. Utility company needs to pay license money for each open port to Landis+Gyr.
2. Data pouring from the port needs to be read with a suitable piece of hardware. Protocol is M-Bus, a TTL signal.

Given Internet has tons of possibilities, a suitable open-source reader exists: P1IB. All the necessary data is freely available at https://github.com/remne/p1ib. Software, hardware and 3D-printer models for the case. Obviously, there is an option to go buy one pre-built.

After tinkering with hardware, enabling a MQTT data-pump on both solar panels and utility meter. Setting up a MQTT-broker to receive the published data and a Home Assistant software to have a cherry on top. Final result looks like this:

In Energy-section of Home Assistant, there are number of data visualizations. Top-left bar diagram indicates how much electricity is being consumed by the household. Blue is electricity purhcase from grid with money. Yellow is electricity produced by solar panels. Bottom side, purple, is electricity sold to utility company's grid from solar panels.

Bracket with time 12:00 has hours 11, 12 and 13 in it. As an example, during hour 12 house consumed 0.8 kWh of electricity. Of that 0.61 kWh was solar power (yay! free!) and 0.18 kWh was purchased from utility company (uff! €). However, during that hour solar production was 1,74 kWh, of which 1,13 kWh was returned back to grid. Funny how averages work, there must have been clouds or spike in consumption for the need to purchase more. On the other hand, there were plenty of times where excess energy was available. In theory, I'll get some money out of that excess. Practically: I don't. Transfer in and out costs money to me and all my potential proceeds go to transfer.

Looking at other parts of the visualizations: Obviously, the good thing is I do consume 50% of my own production, making it 42% of all my consumption. What happened after taking the screenshot was the obvious sunset. My solar panels are unable to produce anything, so all my consumed electricyt was from the grid. As a daily record, after sunset hours did increase daily net consumption by couple kWh.

Next up: Now that we know what electricity costs and the rate it flows in and out, it is easy to apply money on top of all this. It should be possible to estimate correctness of initial payback time of solar panel investment.

DLMS/COSEM or Device Language Message Specification / Companion Specification for Energy Metering is something IEC 62056 set of standards define. The use case is to enable a consumer to access readings of a smart meter. Technology is robust, it was introduced in Netherlands nearly 30 years ago. Accessing data is also very straightforward, DLMS.dev has instructions for this.

Port and magnet-attaching reader look like these:

Simple & robust. Then there is the but -part. (there always is one)

My electricity meter (let's state the obvious: provided by my utility company) looks like this:

Unit is a Landis+Gyr E450 and it has the port ... aaand the port doesn't work. In my books "work" would indicate some sort of data flow. To sort this out, I contacted tech support with questions. The reply I got was astonishing! DLMS is disabled for all units because of expensive license fee. The greedy bastards at Landis+Gyr want more money for (EU) 2019/944 given consumer rights. As the price is steep, my provider chose not to comply, which translates into no data for me.

Given EU laws and regulations, the story does not end there. In their infinite wisdom, L+G license fee for HAN P1 interface makes commercial sense, so:

Now I'm running a Landis+Gyr E360.

Obviously, the HAN P1 doesn't work yet. It needs to be enabled from network control. For the mentioned license fee. I'll get back to this when I have any data.

Last month I bumped into an incompatible DisplayPort -cable. There are many different speeds and DP 2.0 requires so much more on your cable to achieve those speeds 4K, 5K and 8K monitors require.

A famous phrase states "Go big or go home!" So I did that. Went big:

These two cables with 8K and 10K spec should have the oompf required to run any of my future monitors.

Color-coding is puzzling to me:

No matter how much I do looking & searching, there isn't anything I can find on those colors. My obvious assumption is for the manufacturer Deltaco to mark 8K with a red connector and 10K with a blue. Exactly what cable speed that translates into, I dunno. My speculation is with UHBR13.5 and UHBR20, but that's only my guess.

In my previous post on the topic I did complain on lacking markings. The boxes have semi-reasonable markings, cables have none. Besides the undocumented color coding.

I you'd compare USB-A -connectors:

Or USB4-connectors:

Both have well documented system. DisplayPort, not so much.

I spend lot of time doing stuff with a computer or computers to be exact. As a heavy-duty user, I love to have good displays to do the computing with. As every thing in consumer electronics, also monitor technology has improved a lot.

One of these days, I wanted a new monitor with really good spec.
Delivery guy brought me one, I installed it into my VESA monitor arm and then everything turned sour.

My expensive monitor "kinda" worked. Picture was there, it was crisp, backlight was really good, HDR-colors were really vivid until the monitor chose to flicker a bit and black out. This unfortunate blackout was a totally random event. It could occur three times per minute, or alternatively there could easily be 20 minutes without problems. Such random problems are very difficult to troubleshoot. In any easy case, reproducability is the key. No such joy here.

When in doubt - Google the problem!

Obviously, I went online with a description of the symptoms. Quite soon, this is what I found from Reddit: I'm having screen flickering/blackout via Displayport on my new 1440p 144 hz monitor. The suggestions pointed towards testing different cables and discussion about DisplayPort versions. Good ideas!

GPU

From GPU spec:

Confirmed GPU DisplayPort to be at version 1.4.

Previous Monitor

Spec says:

Confirmed old monitor DisplayPort to be at version 1.2. Hm. Everything worked at 4K resolution, no 144Hz though.

New Monitor

Spec:

Confirmed monitor DisplayPort to be at version 1.4. Equal to GPU.

Maybe the problem IS with the cable as suggested in Reddit!

Theory: DisplayPort Cable

Doing research on DisplayPort: DisplayPort 1.4 vs. 1.2: What's the Difference?

DisplayPort 1.2, originally released in 2010, offers more bandwidth than all but the latest HDMI standards.
DisplayPort 1.4 is a much more capable standard, with limited competition from even the latest and greatest

DisplayPort 1.4 supports resolutions of up to 8K at 60Hz or 4K at 240Hz
DisplayPort 1.2 supports resolutions of up to 4K at 60Hz

Doing research on cabling: How to Tell the Difference Between Display Port 1.2 and 1.4 Cables

Just to be clear, DisplayPort cables are not classified by version, they are classified by the amount of bandwidth they can handle.

Good thing there was a DisplayPort cable with the monitor. Changed it into use and oh yes! Flickering was gone.

Wikipedia says in DisplayPort -article:

There are seven (7) different specs for a cable. Well, that's a surprise.

Practice: DisplayPort Cable

Let's look at those cables bit closer. This is the non-functioning one:

There are zero clues on cable spec. Nothing! It has WEEE label and CE marking, that's all. Given reality, I'm guessing it is HBR / HBR2 -spec.

This is the good cable:

Still no idea of cable details. DisplayPort-logo with 8K suggests spec to be at least HBR3.

Reality Check

There is really no way of telling how fast a DisplayPort-cable is by hooking it into a computer or eyeballing it.

Beware: Most DisplayPort cables aren't sold with correct information
Aow come on! This is horrible.

Good thing is my money wasn't wasted on a faulty unit.

Wireless LAN, or Wi-Fi, is topic I've written a lot about. Router hardware is common. Most end-user appliance people use are wireless. Wi-Fi combined with proper Internet connection has tons of bandwidth and is responsive. From hacking perspective quite many of those boxes run Linux or a thing with hackable endpoints. Or alternatively, on the electronics board, there are interesting pins that a person with knowledge can lure the box do things manufacturer didn't expect to happen. Oh, I love hardware hacks!

Routers are exploitable

Back in 2016 these routers were harnessed to a new use. From hacker's perspective, there exists a thing which works perfectly, but doesn't do the thing hacker wishes it to do. So, after little bit of hacking, the device "learns" a new skill. This new skill was to participate in criminal activity as a DDoS traffic generator. Geekflare article How to Secure Your Router Against Mirai Botnet Attacks explains as follows:

According to Paras Jha, one of the authors of the Mirai bot, most of the IoT devices infected and used by the Mirai Botnet were routers.

A word from national intelligence organization

Fast forward nine years to 2023. Things really haven't changed much. There exists even more Wi-Fi routers. The routers are manufactured in huge volumes, designed to make maximum profit for the manufacturer and are lacking a ton of security features. Combine these hackable routers with all the geopolitical tension in the World right now our beloved routers have become the interest of Finnish Security and Intelligence Service (or Supo, acronym in Finnish).

This month, in their annual National Security Overview 2023, in Threats to national security are continually evolving, they issued a warning: "Cyber espionage exploits unprotected consumer devices". Actually, they did pretty much the same thing back in March -21 with following statement: "Supo has observed that the intelligence services of authoritarian states have been exploiting dozens of network devices and servers of Finnish individuals and businesses in cyber espionage operations."

How?

Having a national intelligence service to warn about crappy network hardware is a big deal. They don't do the same warning about your toaster or dish washer or cheap Android phone. Same characteristics don't really apply to anything else. A device needs to be:

• On-line / Internet connected
  • See Mr. Hyppönen's book: If It’s Smart, It’s Vulnerable
  • And btw., all routers are computers. Any computer is considered as a "smart" device.
• Insecure
  • Yeah. Even the expensive Wi-Fi routers have crappy manufacturer firmware in them. Cheap ones are especially vulnerable. And even the good ones expire after couple of years as manufacturer loses interest and ceases publishing new upgrades.
• Exist in masses
  • Literally every home and business has at least one. I don't know the total number of homes and businesses in the World, but it must be a big number!

On those three characteristics, following things are true:

• Every single vulnerable device can be found easily.
  • As the internet, there are 3,706,452,992 public IPv4 addresses. That seems like a big number, but in reality it isn't. (Actually, the scale of the number is same as the number of homes+businesses.)
  • In 2013 the entire address space could be scanned in 44 minutes. (See Washington Post article Here’s what you find when you scan the entire Internet in an hour)
• Every single vulnerable device can be cracked wide open without human interaction by automated tools in a split second.
• Every single cracked device can be made to do whatever the attacker wants.
  • Any typical scenario is some sort of criminal activity.

Why?

100% of all lay-persons I've talked to state "I don't care if I'm hacked. I'm not an important person and have nothing to hide." What they miss is, attacker wanting to use their paid connection while impersonating as them to commit crimes.

We also have learned not all attackers are after money, some of them are state actors doing espionage. There are multiple types of attackers ranging from teenagers smearing their school's website to cybercriminals stealing money to government sponsored spies stealing state secrets.

Now we're getting to the reason why intelligence services are issuing warnings!

Scaring consumers - There is profit to be made

Since these intelligence service warnings have existed for couple years, in May -23 a major ISP / Telco in Finland, DNA, issued a press release (this is in Finnish, sorry) stating following:

Does you home have over four year old router? An expert reveals why it can be a risk.

Translated quote:

As a rule of thumb I'd say: a four year old router for basic user is aged. Advanced users may replace their routers every two years.

Going open-source!

For clarity: I'm not disputing the fact an aged router with never being upgraded to latest available firmware wouldn't be a security risk. It is! As a hacker I'm disputing is the need to purchase a new one. Gen. pop. will never ever be able to hack their devices into running OpenWrt or DD-WRT, that's for sure. Instead, educating people with risks involved with cheap consumer electronics and offering advice on smart choices would be preferred.

Here is my advice:

• Router manufacturers (and ISPs) are commercial entities targeting to maximize their profit. Their intent is to sell you a new router even when the hardware of your old device is still ok.
• Part of profit maximizing is to abandon the device after couple years of its release. There exists manufacturers which have never released a single security patch. Profit maximizing is very insecure for you as consumer.
• Hardware doesn't expire as fast as software does. There are exeptions to this. Power supplies and radio frequency electronics takes the greatest wear&tear on your 24/7 enabled device, sometimes getting a new box is the best option.
• Your old hardware may be eligible for re-purposing with open-source options. Ask your local hacker for details.
• Open-source firmware gets upgrades for both features and security for any forseeable future. This can happen as open-source firmware unifies all various hardware under a single umbrella.
• Make a habit of upgrading your open-source firmware every now and then. New firmwares will be made available on a regular basis.

Personally, for the past 19 years I've only purchased Wi-Fi routers which have OpenWrt or DD-WRT -support. Typically, after unboxing the thing, factory firmware runs only those precious minutes to get a proper Linux running into them. This is what I recommend everybody else to do!

PS. Kudos to those manufacturers who skipped the part with creating something and abandoning firmware of their own and license open-source solutions. There aren't many of you. Keep it up!

Apple computers are known to have not-so-many ports. Design philosophy is for a machine to be self-sufficient and to not need any extensions nor ports for extensions. Reality bites and eats any ideology for a breakfast. I definitely need the extensions!

So, for my new iMac, I went shopping for more ports. Whenever I need to do this, I'll first check Hyper. Their products are known to be of highest quality and well designed to meet the specific requirements of a Mac. To be clear: on an iMac there are four ports: two USB-C and two Thunderbolt 4. This ought to be enough for everybody, right? Nope. All of them are in the back of the computer. What if you need something with easy access?

This is what's in a HyperDrive for iMac box:

Those changeable covers are designed to match the colour of the iMac. This reminds me of 1998 when Nokia introduced the Xpress-on Covers for 5110:

Image courtesy of nokiaprojectdream.com.

This is how the USB-hub clamps into iMac:

Now I don't have to try and blindly attempt to touchy/feely the location of a port behind the computer. On my desk, back of the iMac is definitely not visible nor available. Also, it is noteworthy, somebody might declare the setup "ugly" or complain of my choice of color express-on cover. The iMac is silver, but I have a yellow cover on the HyperDrive. That's how I roll!

Summer here in Finland is over. It's windy and raining cats&dogs. Definitely beginning of autumn.

For me, summer is typically time to do lots of other things than write blog posts. No exceptions this time. I did tinker around with computers some: new rack server to replace the old Intel Atom, some USB-probing via DLMS, some Python code, etc. etc. I may post someething on those projects later.

And: I got a new iMac. Here are some pics:

Back-in-the-days, there used to be 21.5" and 27" iMac. Actually, my old one is the small one. Since Apple abandoned Intel CPUs, one-size-fits-all, only 24" option available. Also, the iMacs I have are VESA-mounted ones. There is no room on my desk.

Box contents:

Apple's magic mouse is for somebody else. I hate the thing! Good thing I still have a perfectly working MX Anywhere 2. On my other computer I (obviously) use a MX Anywhere 3 and have plans to upgrade it into a 3S.

Cabling in an iMac is not-so-standard:

Ethernet RJ-45 -socket is in the PSU, which has your standard IEC C5 "Mickey Mouse" connector. On the other end, there is a Magsafe. With Ethernet in it! It has to be some sort of USB-C / Thunderbolt 4 -thingie with really weird magnetic connector.

Transferring setteings and data from a OS X to modern macOS works like a charm. Nothing in Windows can touch that level of easiness. Also, now I have an OS that can do Time Machine backups to a Linux/Samba. Nice! Maybe I should post something about that setup also.

Next: Run the thing for 10+ years. Btw. the old one is for sale, it really has no monetary value, but it works and I don't need it anymore.

LM-Sensors is set of libraries and tools for accessing your Linux server's motheboard sensors. See more @ https://github.com/lm-sensors/lm-sensors.

If you're ever wondered why in Windows it is tricky to get readings from your CPU-fan rotation speed or core temperatures from you fancy GPU without manufacturer utilities. Obviously vendors do provide all the possible readings in their utilities, but people who would want to read, record and store the data for their own purposes, things get hairy. Nothing generic exists and for unknown reason, such API isn't even planned.

In Linux, The One toolkit to use is LM-Sensors. On kernel side, there exists The Linux Hardware Monitoring kernel API. For this stack to work, you also need a kernel module specific to your motherboard providing the requested sensor information via this beautiful API. It's also worth noting, your PC's hardware will have multiple sensors data providers. An incomplete list would include: motherboard, CPU, GPU, SSD, PSU, etc.

Now that sensors-detect found all your sensors, confirm sensors will output what you'd expect it to. In my case there was a major malfunction. On a boot, following thing happened when system started sensord (in case you didn't know, kernel-stuff can be read via dmesg):

systemd[1]: Starting lm_sensors.service - Hardware Monitoring Sensors...
kernel: nct6775: Enabling hardware monitor logical device mappings.
kernel: nct6775: Found NCT6793D or compatible chip at 0x2e:0x290
kernel: ACPI Warning: SystemIO range 0x0000000000000295-0x0000000000000296 conflicts with OpRegion 0x0000000000000290-0x0000000000000299 (_GPE.HWM) (20221020/utaddress-204)
kernel: ACPI: OSL: Resource conflict; ACPI support missing from driver?
systemd[1]: Finished lm_sensors.service - Hardware Monitoring Sensors.

This conflict resulted in no available mobo readings! NVMe, GPU and CPU-cores were ok, the part I was mostly looking for was fan RPMs and mobo temps just to verify my system health. No such joy. Uff.

It seems, this particular Linux kernel module has issues. Or another way to state it: mobo manufacturers have trouble implementing Nuvoton chip into their mobos. On Gentoo forums, there is a helpful thread: [solved] nct6775 monitoring driver conflicts with ACPI
Disclaimer: For ROG Maximus X Code -mobo adding acpi_enforce_resources=no into kernel parameters is the correct solution. Results will vary depending on what mobo you have.

Such ACPI-setting can be permanently enforced by first querying about the Linux kernel version being used (I run a Fedora): grubby --info=$(grubby --default-index). The resulting kernel version can be updated by: grubby --args="acpi_enforce_resources=no" --update-kernel DEFAULT. A reboot shows fix in effect, ACPI Warning is gone and mobo sensor data can be seen.

As a next step you'll need userland tooling to interpret the raw data into human-readable information with semantics. A new years back, I wrote about Improving Nuvoton NCT6776 lm_sensors output. It's mainly about bridging the flow of zeros and ones into something having meaning to humans. This is my LM-Sensors configuration for ROG Maximus X Code:

chip "nct6793-isa-0290"

    # 1. voltages
    ignore in0
    ignore in1
    ignore in2
    ignore in3
    ignore in4
    ignore in5
    ignore in6
    ignore in7
    ignore in8
    ignore in9
    ignore in10
    ignore in11

    label in12 "Cold Bug Killer"
    set in12_min 0.936
    set in12_max 2.613
    set in12_beep 1

    label in13 "DMI"
    set in13_min 0.550
    set in13_max 2.016
    set in13_beep 1

    ignore in14

    # 2. fans
    label fan1 "Chassis fan1"
    label fan2 "CPU fan"
    ignore fan3
    ignore fan4
    label fan5 "Ext fan?"

    # 3. temperatures
    label temp1 "MoBo"

    label temp2 "CPU"
    set temp2_max 90
    set temp2_beep 1

    ignore temp3
    ignore temp5
    ignore temp6
    ignore temp9
    ignore temp10
    ignore temp13
    ignore temp14
    ignore temp15
    ignore temp16
    ignore temp17
    ignore temp18

    # 4. other
    set beep_enable 1
    ignore intrusion0
    ignore intrusion1

I'd like to credit Mr. Peter Sulyok on his work about ASRock Z390 Taichi. This mobo happens to use the same Nuvoton NCT6793D -chip for LPC/eSPI SI/O (I have no idea what those acronyms are for, I just copy/pasted them from the chip data sheet). The configuration is in GitHub for everybody to see: https://github.com/petersulyok/asrock_z390_taichi

Also, I''d like to state my ignorance. After reading less than 500 pages of the NCT6793D data sheet, I have no idea what is:

• Cold Bug Killer voltage
• DMI voltage
• AUXTIN1 is or exactly what temperature measurement it serves
• PECI Agent 0 temperature
• PECI Agent 0 Calibration temperature

Remember, I did mention semantics. From sensors-command output I can read a reading, what it translates into, no idea! Luckily there are some of the readings seen are easy to understand and interpret. As an example, fan RPMs are really easy to measure by removing the fan from its connector. Here is an excerpt from my mobo manual to explain fan-connectors:

As data quality is taken care of and output is meaningful, next step is to start recording data. In LM-Sensors, there is sensord for that. It is a system service taking a snapshot (you can define the frequency) and storing it for later use. I'll enrich the stored data points with system load averages, this enables me to estimate a relation with high temperatures and/or fan RPMs with how much my system is working.

Finally, all data gathered into a RRDtool database can be easily visualized with rrdcgi into HTML + set of PNG-images to present a web page like this:

Nice!

Earlier this year, I wrote how it was impossible to replace X.509 certificate on a HP printer.

Let's state the good news first: Me and many other people suspected, it was a broken firmware. Indeed, that was the case. Now there is a more recent firmware which contains a fix for the issue.

Determining current firmware version

Version can be verified in System --> Administration menu.

How Laserjet's on-line firmware check works

While tinkering on this, it became evident my HP Laserjet unit isn't especially good at figuring out if there was a new firmware available or not. After some wiresharking, it was possible to determine the logic.

Main endpoint is at http://h19005.www1.hp.com/pub/laserjet/updates/me/manifest. Note: yes it is HTTP, not HTTPS. Also, if you click the link, a file will be downloaded to your machine. This is because most browsers refuse to display octet-streams on screen.

Response will contain a human-readable proprietary application/octet-stream with information about available Laserjet firmwares. Among the data is a mapping table:

20190819: 20211122
20200324: 20211122
20200603: 20211122
20201022: 20211122
20211122: 20230321
20211221: 20230321
20220224: 20230321
20220309: 20230321
20220411: 20230321
20220729: 20230321

My interpretation is as follows:

1. Firmware versions 20190819, 20200324, 20200603 and 20201022 can be upgraded into version 20211122.
2. Any firmware versions beginning from 20211122 up to most recent one can be upgraded 20230321

As we know, latest frimware 20230321 contains the fix for certificate uploading, there is an upgrade path for any firmware to have the latest and the brightest version.

If I wanted to, using this URL it would be possible to create a daily/weekly/monthly check if I should take a look at my printer. The own mechanism isn't especially good, and I'd rather do the upgrading manually anyway.

Certificate / PKCS #12

When the bug prevented upload of any new certificates, I did investigate pretty much all available options OpenSSL has for packing PKCS#12-files.

Fixed firmware does accept any reasonable PKCS#12-file. This will work with full chain certificate in the file or not. In Laserjet, only the certificate will be picked and used, any intermediate CA certs will be ignored.

Finally

It took HP half a year to fix this. Unacceptable!

It's funny how fast you stop paying much attention to your car or sofa. First you spend reasonable amount of money on it. Then they just exist as everyday items. Then, slowly but surely, there is the urge: Should I get a new one?

Exactly the same thing happens with your PC. Maybe one of those precious resources starts running out, SSD or RAM. Maybe CPU or GPU starts feeling bit slow. Then you remember how good everything was when you first got the thing. Yup, the urge is there. Must obtain new.

Roughly five years ago, I was doing my PC on Twitch. As Larpdog doesn't stream anymore, no public appearances this time. I did assemble a new rig, though.

During those years, things have evolved. This happens all the time.

• EATX is a real thing, see Wikipedia for ATX info
  • The fact that both cases and motherboard are sold is a big deal.
  • This is not a real standard!
• CPU is LGA1700
  • Back in the days, I thought 1200 pins connecting my CPU to motherboard was a lot.
• DDR-5
  • Having slight overclock on DDR-4 made it pretty fast.
  • Now slowest DDR-5 begins way above OCd DDR-4.
• PCIe is 5.0
  • I don't own any extension cards supporting 5.0. Good thing 4.0 and 3.0 cards work ok.
  • M.2 NMVe with 5.0 is generally available.
• Every single case has a plexi-glass side
  • What! Why? For what purpose!!
  • If I wanted to see into my PC, I'd also wanted to see into my own stomach and would install plexiglass 6-pack into myself.
  • Well. I don't want either. Stupid idea!
• There are almost no USB-connectors in cases
  • There used to be. Plenty of those connectors.
• Motherboard box contains coded messages in swag

I ordered the first case I found without ridiculous see-through side. It is from Swedish manufacturer Fractal, Meshify 2. The entire case is steel mesh. Like full of tiny holes. It's bad if you'd spill Pepsi into it, but it's good for ventilation.
This is what Republic of Games mobo box has in it, some swag with a message:

The first thing I had to do is put 25°07'29.5"N 121°28'15.6"E into Google Maps. It results in this link: https://goo.gl/maps/diiBipMcFfz5oBgz7

Ah! Those coordinates point to Asus headquarters in Taiwan. It was a nice gift. Also, it was a fun "spy game" trying to figure out what those numbers translate into. 👍

I/O performance of M.2 is satisfactory:

Those ATTO Benchmark results are very good! I'm happy with my investment.

This is a solid PC for my next 5-year period. I know I will upgrade the GPU in next couple years. At the moment, my existing ATI does a fine job running Dead Island 2.

I'm a known owner of an angle grider:

Above pic is from my blog post about making sure my data won't be read off on a decommissioned hard drive.

One day I had an untypical burst of let's-clean-the-storage-to-make-room-for-new-stuff -energy. In storege, there were two rack-servers, which hadn't been running for many years, so it was time to let them to a greener pastures. I have an absolute policy of recycling obsoleted electronics without storage media. Drives will be a "special" treatment. See the above pic.

This is what I wanted to do, get the drive removed from the hot-swap cage. No avail!

Blocker was a screw head which looked like a T-10 Torx, but not exactly. There was an unexpected post in the middle of the head making a T-10 fit really badly:

By reading the Wikipedia page for Torx, I realized the problem. This was an infamous Security Torx! I had a faint recollection of such thing existing, but those are so rare, I'd never seen one. Quickly browsing trough my tools and bits, it seemed I didn't own anything to make the task possible.

This meant I got to go to a hardware store to get new toys:

Right tools for the job and problem was solved!
Now there is a stack of rack-server drives ready to bite the grinder disc.

Given the vast differences between Apple's iOS and Google's Android platforms, I own, run and operate both. For those interested: Apple I have as my daily mobile, Android, the more popular platform, I use for more experimental features which are not available on the other one. These features include: access to mobile radios, access to NFC and Bluetooth.

Nokia (or HMD Global to be precise) is a really good Android mobile manufacturer. Generally speasking, they don't bloat their firmware with mandatory always forced-on Facebook or any such crap. Also, my years old 5.3 got Android 12 update. Obviously, this was nice as most manufacturers sell you forgetware getting no updates, but ... (there is always a but-part). What typically happens with electronics, is the hardware becomes obsolete faster than consumer would like to. This puppy doesn't pack the oomph in it's Snapdragon CPU to fluently run Android 12. I had no problems with Androids 10 or 11, with 12 everything started feeling too sluggish. To shopping I went. I came back with a Nokia G21.

Resetting an Android

Onboarding new phone was almost painless. Most icons on my start screen were lost, apps were loaded from Play, icons not so much. Such a thing is easy to fix, so I made the call to do a full reset to the old mobile. That is the standard procedure when you're about to donate/sell/hand out your old computing hardware.

Aftermath – Reset bricked my Nokia!

Crap! The thing failed to boot after reset.

What! What? How is this possible?

Yes, I wasn't alone. Nokia Community forum has following post: WARNING - Do NOT factory reset Nokia 5.3 -- Bricked phone. Factory resetting stuff is such a basic operation done commonly, I didn't much do any research for it. On hindsight (it is 20-20 always) I should have done some.

De-brick

On above thread Mr. Adam Howard faced the same situation and presented a solution.

Prerequisites

Following is needed:

• A computer capable of running Android SDK.
  • I used macOS, no drivers or such needed
  • I know Linux will work fine, my understanding is no drivers are needed there either
  • Windows is known to work, but will require device driver for Android. Which one? No idea here.
• Enough permissions and skills to run Android tools on your computer.
• USB-C cable to connect Android to your computer
  • Make sure the device is unconnected, it will be connected later
• Android SDK Platform Tools
  • Available @ https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools
  • Install and test run Android Remote Debugger adb
• Nokia 5.3 Android 12 firmware
  • Available @ https://android.googleapis.com/packages/ota-api/package/d50cb0137919fd20d43cb67a7cb47a073966269d.zip
  • Do NOT unzip! Package is needed by adb in zipped form.
• That's it! Time and your favorite beverages (don't spill, electronics and liquids won't match).

Hard reset / Recovery mode

Apparently you can manually reset any Nokia 5.3 enough to force it into a mode suitable for force installing a new firmware. In this situation, obviously very helpful for recovery purposes. Scary as hell if you have a habit of losing your mobile to dishonest people. They can do nasty stuff to your mobile.

Instructions are here: HardReset.info: How to put NOKIA 5.3 in recovery mode?

Here is the sequence:

1. Power off device
2. Power on. This is your typical turn-it-on -sequence. Press power-button for ~4 seconds.
3. This is your typical turn-it-on -sequence. Release power button.
4. Press and hold: power button & volume down.
5. Keep pressing the buttons until recovery screen appears: "START"
   
6. Tap volume down 2 times: "Recovery mode"
   
7. Press power button to select Recovery mode
8. Device will restart.
9. Wait for Android with side open to appear. Note: there are no options in this screen.
   
10. Press and release: power button & volume up.
11. Android Recovery menu will appear
12. Tap volume down 3 times, "Apply update from ADB"
    
13. Connect cable
14. Press power button to select Apply update from ADB
15. Leave you mobile be, next operation will be done on your computer.

On your computer: Upload firmware

Here is the sequence:

1. Requirement: Your mobile must be waiting for firmware to be uploaded
2. Info: Android Platform Tools (directory platform-tools) will contain utility adb
3. Info: You will be using sideload-function of adb. Info @ Sideload ROMs and Mods Using ADB Sideload
4. Run adb and point it to downloaded firmware, adapt your filename:
   adb sideload ../Nokia\ 5.3\ firmware.zip
5. On your mobile following will happen:
   
6. As time passes, progress will be updated:
   
7. Firmware update done
   
8. That's it!

Done

Observe out-of-box -experience on your mobile:

This is a major blooper by HMD guys. The community forum is full of angry people who bricked their 5.3 with Android 12.