Hardware

Apple computers are known to have not-so-many ports. Design philosophy is for a machine to be self-sufficient and to not need any extensions nor ports for extensions. Reality bites and eats any ideology for a breakfast. I definitely need the extensions!

So, for my new iMac, I went shopping for more ports. Whenever I need to do this, I'll first check Hyper. Their products are known to be of highest quality and well designed to meet the specific requirements of a Mac. To be clear: on an iMac there are four ports: two USB-C and two Thunderbolt 4. This ought to be enough for everybody, right? Nope. All of them are in the back of the computer. What if you need something with easy access?

This is what's in a HyperDrive for iMac box:

Those changeable covers are designed to match the colour of the iMac. This reminds me of 1998 when Nokia introduced the Xpress-on Covers for 5110:

Image courtesy of nokiaprojectdream.com.

This is how the USB-hub clamps into iMac:

Now I don't have to try and blindly attempt to touchy/feely the location of a port behind the computer. On my desk, back of the iMac is definitely not visible nor available. Also, it is noteworthy, somebody might declare the setup "ugly" or complain of my choice of color express-on cover. The iMac is silver, but I have a yellow cover on the HyperDrive. That's how I roll!

Summer here in Finland is over. It's windy and raining cats&dogs. Definitely beginning of autumn.

For me, summer is typically time to do lots of other things than write blog posts. No exceptions this time. I did tinker around with computers some: new rack server to replace the old Intel Atom, some USB-probing via DLMS, some Python code, etc. etc. I may post someething on those projects later.

And: I got a new iMac. Here are some pics:

Back-in-the-days, there used to be 21.5" and 27" iMac. Actually, my old one is the small one. Since Apple abandoned Intel CPUs, one-size-fits-all, only 24" option available. Also, the iMacs I have are VESA-mounted ones. There is no room on my desk.

Box contents:

Apple's magic mouse is for somebody else. I hate the thing! Good thing I still have a perfectly working MX Anywhere 2. On my other computer I (obviously) use a MX Anywhere 3 and have plans to upgrade it into a 3S.

Cabling in an iMac is not-so-standard:

Ethernet RJ-45 -socket is in the PSU, which has your standard IEC C5 "Mickey Mouse" connector. On the other end, there is a Magsafe. With Ethernet in it! It has to be some sort of USB-C / Thunderbolt 4 -thingie with really weird magnetic connector.

Transferring setteings and data from a OS X to modern macOS works like a charm. Nothing in Windows can touch that level of easiness. Also, now I have an OS that can do Time Machine backups to a Linux/Samba. Nice! Maybe I should post something about that setup also.

Next: Run the thing for 10+ years. Btw. the old one is for sale, it really has no monetary value, but it works and I don't need it anymore.

LM-Sensors is set of libraries and tools for accessing your Linux server's motheboard sensors. See more @ https://github.com/lm-sensors/lm-sensors.

If you're ever wondered why in Windows it is tricky to get readings from your CPU-fan rotation speed or core temperatures from you fancy GPU without manufacturer utilities. Obviously vendors do provide all the possible readings in their utilities, but people who would want to read, record and store the data for their own purposes, things get hairy. Nothing generic exists and for unknown reason, such API isn't even planned.

In Linux, The One toolkit to use is LM-Sensors. On kernel side, there exists The Linux Hardware Monitoring kernel API. For this stack to work, you also need a kernel module specific to your motherboard providing the requested sensor information via this beautiful API. It's also worth noting, your PC's hardware will have multiple sensors data providers. An incomplete list would include: motherboard, CPU, GPU, SSD, PSU, etc.

Now that sensors-detect found all your sensors, confirm sensors will output what you'd expect it to. In my case there was a major malfunction. On a boot, following thing happened when system started sensord (in case you didn't know, kernel-stuff can be read via dmesg):

systemd[1]: Starting lm_sensors.service - Hardware Monitoring Sensors...
kernel: nct6775: Enabling hardware monitor logical device mappings.
kernel: nct6775: Found NCT6793D or compatible chip at 0x2e:0x290
kernel: ACPI Warning: SystemIO range 0x0000000000000295-0x0000000000000296 conflicts with OpRegion 0x0000000000000290-0x0000000000000299 (_GPE.HWM) (20221020/utaddress-204)
kernel: ACPI: OSL: Resource conflict; ACPI support missing from driver?
systemd[1]: Finished lm_sensors.service - Hardware Monitoring Sensors.

This conflict resulted in no available mobo readings! NVMe, GPU and CPU-cores were ok, the part I was mostly looking for was fan RPMs and mobo temps just to verify my system health. No such joy. Uff.

It seems, this particular Linux kernel module has issues. Or another way to state it: mobo manufacturers have trouble implementing Nuvoton chip into their mobos. On Gentoo forums, there is a helpful thread: [solved] nct6775 monitoring driver conflicts with ACPI
Disclaimer: For ROG Maximus X Code -mobo adding acpi_enforce_resources=no into kernel parameters is the correct solution. Results will vary depending on what mobo you have.

Such ACPI-setting can be permanently enforced by first querying about the Linux kernel version being used (I run a Fedora): grubby --info=$(grubby --default-index). The resulting kernel version can be updated by: grubby --args="acpi_enforce_resources=no" --update-kernel DEFAULT. A reboot shows fix in effect, ACPI Warning is gone and mobo sensor data can be seen.

As a next step you'll need userland tooling to interpret the raw data into human-readable information with semantics. A new years back, I wrote about Improving Nuvoton NCT6776 lm_sensors output. It's mainly about bridging the flow of zeros and ones into something having meaning to humans. This is my LM-Sensors configuration for ROG Maximus X Code:

chip "nct6793-isa-0290"

    # 1. voltages
    ignore in0
    ignore in1
    ignore in2
    ignore in3
    ignore in4
    ignore in5
    ignore in6
    ignore in7
    ignore in8
    ignore in9
    ignore in10
    ignore in11

    label in12 "Cold Bug Killer"
    set in12_min 0.936
    set in12_max 2.613
    set in12_beep 1

    label in13 "DMI"
    set in13_min 0.550
    set in13_max 2.016
    set in13_beep 1

    ignore in14

    # 2. fans
    label fan1 "Chassis fan1"
    label fan2 "CPU fan"
    ignore fan3
    ignore fan4
    label fan5 "Ext fan?"

    # 3. temperatures
    label temp1 "MoBo"

    label temp2 "CPU"
    set temp2_max 90
    set temp2_beep 1

    ignore temp3
    ignore temp5
    ignore temp6
    ignore temp9
    ignore temp10
    ignore temp13
    ignore temp14
    ignore temp15
    ignore temp16
    ignore temp17
    ignore temp18

    # 4. other
    set beep_enable 1
    ignore intrusion0
    ignore intrusion1

I'd like to credit Mr. Peter Sulyok on his work about ASRock Z390 Taichi. This mobo happens to use the same Nuvoton NCT6793D -chip for LPC/eSPI SI/O (I have no idea what those acronyms are for, I just copy/pasted them from the chip data sheet). The configuration is in GitHub for everybody to see: https://github.com/petersulyok/asrock_z390_taichi

Also, I''d like to state my ignorance. After reading less than 500 pages of the NCT6793D data sheet, I have no idea what is:

• Cold Bug Killer voltage
• DMI voltage
• AUXTIN1 is or exactly what temperature measurement it serves
• PECI Agent 0 temperature
• PECI Agent 0 Calibration temperature

Remember, I did mention semantics. From sensors-command output I can read a reading, what it translates into, no idea! Luckily there are some of the readings seen are easy to understand and interpret. As an example, fan RPMs are really easy to measure by removing the fan from its connector. Here is an excerpt from my mobo manual to explain fan-connectors:

As data quality is taken care of and output is meaningful, next step is to start recording data. In LM-Sensors, there is sensord for that. It is a system service taking a snapshot (you can define the frequency) and storing it for later use. I'll enrich the stored data points with system load averages, this enables me to estimate a relation with high temperatures and/or fan RPMs with how much my system is working.

Finally, all data gathered into a RRDtool database can be easily visualized with rrdcgi into HTML + set of PNG-images to present a web page like this:

Nice!

Earlier this year, I wrote how it was impossible to replace X.509 certificate on a HP printer.

Let's state the good news first: Me and many other people suspected, it was a broken firmware. Indeed, that was the case. Now there is a more recent firmware which contains a fix for the issue.

Determining current firmware version

Version can be verified in System --> Administration menu.

How Laserjet's on-line firmware check works

While tinkering on this, it became evident my HP Laserjet unit isn't especially good at figuring out if there was a new firmware available or not. After some wiresharking, it was possible to determine the logic.

Main endpoint is at http://h19005.www1.hp.com/pub/laserjet/updates/me/manifest. Note: yes it is HTTP, not HTTPS. Also, if you click the link, a file will be downloaded to your machine. This is because most browsers refuse to display octet-streams on screen.

Response will contain a human-readable proprietary application/octet-stream with information about available Laserjet firmwares. Among the data is a mapping table:

20190819: 20211122
20200324: 20211122
20200603: 20211122
20201022: 20211122
20211122: 20230321
20211221: 20230321
20220224: 20230321
20220309: 20230321
20220411: 20230321
20220729: 20230321

My interpretation is as follows:

1. Firmware versions 20190819, 20200324, 20200603 and 20201022 can be upgraded into version 20211122.
2. Any firmware versions beginning from 20211122 up to most recent one can be upgraded 20230321

As we know, latest frimware 20230321 contains the fix for certificate uploading, there is an upgrade path for any firmware to have the latest and the brightest version.

If I wanted to, using this URL it would be possible to create a daily/weekly/monthly check if I should take a look at my printer. The own mechanism isn't especially good, and I'd rather do the upgrading manually anyway.

Certificate / PKCS #12

When the bug prevented upload of any new certificates, I did investigate pretty much all available options OpenSSL has for packing PKCS#12-files.

Fixed firmware does accept any reasonable PKCS#12-file. This will work with full chain certificate in the file or not. In Laserjet, only the certificate will be picked and used, any intermediate CA certs will be ignored.

Finally

It took HP half a year to fix this. Unacceptable!

It's funny how fast you stop paying much attention to your car or sofa. First you spend reasonable amount of money on it. Then they just exist as everyday items. Then, slowly but surely, there is the urge: Should I get a new one?

Exactly the same thing happens with your PC. Maybe one of those precious resources starts running out, SSD or RAM. Maybe CPU or GPU starts feeling bit slow. Then you remember how good everything was when you first got the thing. Yup, the urge is there. Must obtain new.

Roughly five years ago, I was doing my PC on Twitch. As Larpdog doesn't stream anymore, no public appearances this time. I did assemble a new rig, though.

During those years, things have evolved. This happens all the time.

• EATX is a real thing, see Wikipedia for ATX info
  • The fact that both cases and motherboard are sold is a big deal.
  • This is not a real standard!
• CPU is LGA1700
  • Back in the days, I thought 1200 pins connecting my CPU to motherboard was a lot.
• DDR-5
  • Having slight overclock on DDR-4 made it pretty fast.
  • Now slowest DDR-5 begins way above OCd DDR-4.
• PCIe is 5.0
  • I don't own any extension cards supporting 5.0. Good thing 4.0 and 3.0 cards work ok.
  • M.2 NMVe with 5.0 is generally available.
• Every single case has a plexi-glass side
  • What! Why? For what purpose!!
  • If I wanted to see into my PC, I'd also wanted to see into my own stomach and would install plexiglass 6-pack into myself.
  • Well. I don't want either. Stupid idea!
• There are almost no USB-connectors in cases
  • There used to be. Plenty of those connectors.
• Motherboard box contains coded messages in swag

I ordered the first case I found without ridiculous see-through side. It is from Swedish manufacturer Fractal, Meshify 2. The entire case is steel mesh. Like full of tiny holes. It's bad if you'd spill Pepsi into it, but it's good for ventilation.
This is what Republic of Games mobo box has in it, some swag with a message:

The first thing I had to do is put 25°07'29.5"N 121°28'15.6"E into Google Maps. It results in this link: https://goo.gl/maps/diiBipMcFfz5oBgz7

Ah! Those coordinates point to Asus headquarters in Taiwan. It was a nice gift. Also, it was a fun "spy game" trying to figure out what those numbers translate into. 👍

I/O performance of M.2 is satisfactory:

Those ATTO Benchmark results are very good! I'm happy with my investment.

This is a solid PC for my next 5-year period. I know I will upgrade the GPU in next couple years. At the moment, my existing ATI does a fine job running Dead Island 2.

I'm a known owner of an angle grider:

Above pic is from my blog post about making sure my data won't be read off on a decommissioned hard drive.

One day I had an untypical burst of let's-clean-the-storage-to-make-room-for-new-stuff -energy. In storege, there were two rack-servers, which hadn't been running for many years, so it was time to let them to a greener pastures. I have an absolute policy of recycling obsoleted electronics without storage media. Drives will be a "special" treatment. See the above pic.

This is what I wanted to do, get the drive removed from the hot-swap cage. No avail!

Blocker was a screw head which looked like a T-10 Torx, but not exactly. There was an unexpected post in the middle of the head making a T-10 fit really badly:

By reading the Wikipedia page for Torx, I realized the problem. This was an infamous Security Torx! I had a faint recollection of such thing existing, but those are so rare, I'd never seen one. Quickly browsing trough my tools and bits, it seemed I didn't own anything to make the task possible.

This meant I got to go to a hardware store to get new toys:

Right tools for the job and problem was solved!
Now there is a stack of rack-server drives ready to bite the grinder disc.

Given the vast differences between Apple's iOS and Google's Android platforms, I own, run and operate both. For those interested: Apple I have as my daily mobile, Android, the more popular platform, I use for more experimental features which are not available on the other one. These features include: access to mobile radios, access to NFC and Bluetooth.

Nokia (or HMD Global to be precise) is a really good Android mobile manufacturer. Generally speasking, they don't bloat their firmware with mandatory always forced-on Facebook or any such crap. Also, my years old 5.3 got Android 12 update. Obviously, this was nice as most manufacturers sell you forgetware getting no updates, but ... (there is always a but-part). What typically happens with electronics, is the hardware becomes obsolete faster than consumer would like to. This puppy doesn't pack the oomph in it's Snapdragon CPU to fluently run Android 12. I had no problems with Androids 10 or 11, with 12 everything started feeling too sluggish. To shopping I went. I came back with a Nokia G21.

Resetting an Android

Onboarding new phone was almost painless. Most icons on my start screen were lost, apps were loaded from Play, icons not so much. Such a thing is easy to fix, so I made the call to do a full reset to the old mobile. That is the standard procedure when you're about to donate/sell/hand out your old computing hardware.

Aftermath – Reset bricked my Nokia!

Crap! The thing failed to boot after reset.

What! What? How is this possible?

Yes, I wasn't alone. Nokia Community forum has following post: WARNING - Do NOT factory reset Nokia 5.3 -- Bricked phone. Factory resetting stuff is such a basic operation done commonly, I didn't much do any research for it. On hindsight (it is 20-20 always) I should have done some.

De-brick

On above thread Mr. Adam Howard faced the same situation and presented a solution.

Prerequisites

Following is needed:

• A computer capable of running Android SDK.
  • I used macOS, no drivers or such needed
  • I know Linux will work fine, my understanding is no drivers are needed there either
  • Windows is known to work, but will require device driver for Android. Which one? No idea here.
• Enough permissions and skills to run Android tools on your computer.
• USB-C cable to connect Android to your computer
  • Make sure the device is unconnected, it will be connected later
• Android SDK Platform Tools
  • Available @ https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools
  • Install and test run Android Remote Debugger adb
• Nokia 5.3 Android 12 firmware
  • Available @ https://android.googleapis.com/packages/ota-api/package/d50cb0137919fd20d43cb67a7cb47a073966269d.zip
  • Do NOT unzip! Package is needed by adb in zipped form.
• That's it! Time and your favorite beverages (don't spill, electronics and liquids won't match).

Hard reset / Recovery mode

Apparently you can manually reset any Nokia 5.3 enough to force it into a mode suitable for force installing a new firmware. In this situation, obviously very helpful for recovery purposes. Scary as hell if you have a habit of losing your mobile to dishonest people. They can do nasty stuff to your mobile.

Instructions are here: HardReset.info: How to put NOKIA 5.3 in recovery mode?

Here is the sequence:

1. Power off device
2. Power on. This is your typical turn-it-on -sequence. Press power-button for ~4 seconds.
3. This is your typical turn-it-on -sequence. Release power button.
4. Press and hold: power button & volume down.
5. Keep pressing the buttons until recovery screen appears: "START"
   
6. Tap volume down 2 times: "Recovery mode"
   
7. Press power button to select Recovery mode
8. Device will restart.
9. Wait for Android with side open to appear. Note: there are no options in this screen.
   
10. Press and release: power button & volume up.
11. Android Recovery menu will appear
12. Tap volume down 3 times, "Apply update from ADB"
    
13. Connect cable
14. Press power button to select Apply update from ADB
15. Leave you mobile be, next operation will be done on your computer.

On your computer: Upload firmware

Here is the sequence:

1. Requirement: Your mobile must be waiting for firmware to be uploaded
2. Info: Android Platform Tools (directory platform-tools) will contain utility adb
3. Info: You will be using sideload-function of adb. Info @ Sideload ROMs and Mods Using ADB Sideload
4. Run adb and point it to downloaded firmware, adapt your filename:
   adb sideload ../Nokia\ 5.3\ firmware.zip
5. On your mobile following will happen:
   
6. As time passes, progress will be updated:
   
7. Firmware update done
   
8. That's it!

Done

Observe out-of-box -experience on your mobile:

This is a major blooper by HMD guys. The community forum is full of angry people who bricked their 5.3 with Android 12.

On my home Linux server I ran out of disc space on my 2 TB hard drive. Or, technically speaking there were hundred or so unallocated megs left on my Logical Volume Manager. That translates as I hadn't yet ran out, I was about to run out of space. There was some reserves left, but it would have required some LVM-tinkering to do to unleash what was left into actual use.

---> To hardware shopping!

This is what I got:

That's a pair of 8 TB Seagate Barracudas hooked up into my old-but-trustworthy LSI MegaRAID.

Yeah, you read it right. BIOS is from year 2011. The logical volume / virtual drive created by 90s-looking WebBIOS looks really nice with all those terabytes:

Hint: Don't do what I did and forgot to hook up one S-ATA power cable properly after finalizing installations. The mirrored RAID-1 -drive will need rebuil. On this particular LSI MegaRAID such rebuild takes ~20 hours to complete. Good thing, the drive was fully available during the operation. It did respond bit slowly during rebuild, but that's what spinning platters do anyways.

Amounts of data I seem to have lying around at my home server is a handful. This simple LVM-tinkering sequence of vgextend / pvmove took nearly five hours to complete. This is one of the multiple advantages of having a logical volume, there exists capability to tell at which physical drive a volume resides at.

When I made the purchase order for new drives, I was considering whether I should not use LVM anymore and go for btrfs. Obvious advantage if upgrade would give me even more flexibility on disc space allocation. On negatives, such transition would require for me to copy all data from old LVM/Ext4 drives to new btrfs-drive. LVM's transition simplicity of entire file system without touching individual files did it for me and I chose to not go for The New Thing™.

Hopefully these platters keep spinning for many years to come.

Update 18th June 2023: See part 2.

One of the pieces of hardware I own and opereate is a HP printer. Most of the time it acts as a ... well, paperweight. Then there is an urgent need to have an A4 with information to be delivered somewhere.

As a keen enthusiast for custom TLS certificates, I always take the option to install one. Especially to a LAN-connected device like printer. This one, however, is broken:


All I can manage from it is: "The format of the file is invalid."

Not so cool. Uh!

For troubleshooting, I looked at Error message "The format of the file is invalid" when attempting to import certificate on HP printer and No more ssl certificate update possible. Both are pretty much stating it doesn't work. Couple years ago in Installing TLS certificates on HP printers automatically the thing worked.

In an attempt to solve this, I exported the generated self-signed key as PKCS #12. Certificate has rather "interesting" crypto, pbeWithSHA1And40BitRC2-CBC, Iteration 2048. That is a seriously obsoleted one! Private key has pbeWithSHA1And3-KeyTripleDES-CBC, Iteration 2048, which is also on the tired side. MAC verification has iteration count 1, which is well aligned with the other insecurity.

No matter what I do, AES, DES, 3-DES, RC2, the PKCS #12 won't import. Neither will CA root cert as PEM.

My conclusion has to be the same: recent firmware upgrades have broken the import.
Multiple hours wasted on that! Darn.

This is one of my computing setups at home office:

This one has a MacBook Pro 16" at desk and some extra display real estate on top of it. It's a Samsung 4K screen. As there are other computers on this desk, this display has no room anywhere else and it has to go high.

An open lid of this MBP will take ~24 cm in height. On this particular Samsung, there is couple centimeters of frame. For the display area to start at 24 cm, bottom of screen has to be at ~22 cm. Like this:

Most inexpensive no-brand solutions (like my previous one) at their arm can go up to to 50 cm. Then at the end of arm, there is the VESA mount, which will be attached to back of the monitor. Like this:

Again, on this particular Samsung the VESA D-mount is a 75x75 mm and it is located at nearly at the top of the screen making the bottom go low. Most displays have a 100x100 and the VESA-mount is typically at center of the thing. Looking at the picture, notice how commonly sold monitor arms have both 100x100 and 75x75 end. This Samsung has a really beautiful round space for all connectors and VESA-mount (invisible to user at the back of the thing). Nobody at Samsung thought how a bigger 100x100 mount would fit inside this obviously-too-small-ring. I couldn't use the regular M4 screws and had to use extra long ones.

Here is a picture of the problem with this Samsung's let's-place-the-mount-at-top -design:

When I go to max height of 50 cm on my arm, I'm missing ~3 cm at the bottom. Monitor is only at 19, but need to be at 22 for the MBP's lid to not obstruct anything at the 4K display. Crap! My old arm clearly has grown too small. There is an illustration of the problem:

Should my MBP be a 13" model or Samsung have its mount in a more reasonable location, this old monitor arm would do it for me. To monitor arm shopping, then. This is the one I got:

It's a Kensington SmartFit® One-Touch Height Adjustable Single Monitor Arm. This more expensive baby can go the required height and much more! Problem solved by throwing money at it.

Over three years ago I had to get a new weather station. See my blog post about it.

Yesterday a storm hit and I wanted to see the measured wind and gust speeds. They were zero. As in no wind at all!
This measurement of nothingness vastly differed what my eyeballs and ears could measure. Wind was strong enough to rip shingles of my roof. Any storm effects were also very audible indoors. ---> To troubleshooting the issue.

My indoors console of Davis Vantage Vue reported: Low battery in sensor 1. Darn!

VeeWX web UI confirmed the fact. Signal quality was flaky:

Notice how signal quality would plummet on dark bars (no sunlight) and recover on light bars (sun started shining into the panel). The battery had gotten its share of -30° C winters and +38° C summers. Sustaining Finnish weather isn't easy for man made objects.

I dug up pictures from my 2019 blog post:

It all came back to me vividly. Indeed, in the bottom of the outdoors unit there is a lithium CR-123 battery. Integrated Sensor Suite (or ISS) has a plastic cover which can be easily removed by opening the plastic screw. As the unit is well designed, the battery pack is well protected from rain, sleet and snow.

Next, getting a replacement. Maybe this battery is one of those hard-to-get and possibly expensive ones? To my surprise a lithium CR-123 is easily available:

Pack of two costs 9,90€ on my local hardware store. Not even expensive!
Yet another well-designed feature of a Vantage Vue.

Unfortunately the second battery has its expiry date before 2025 which is the due time of next change. Generally speaking I'd rather power the unit from a cable. That way I wouldn't have to climb to my garage roof at all. Doing the climbing every three years in a reasonably good weather isn't too bad.

This topic won't go away. It just keeps bugging me. Back in -19 I wrote about GPE06 and couple months ago I wrote about sleep wake. As there is no real solution in existence and I've been using my Mac with Linux, I've come to a conclusion they are in fact the same problem.

When I boot my Mac, log into Linux and observe what's going on. Following CPU-hog can be observed in top:

   RES    SHR S  %CPU  %MEM   TIME+   COMMAND
     0      0 I  41.5   0.0   2:01.50 [kworker/0:1-kacpi_notify]

ACPI-notify will chomp quite a lot of CPU. As previously stated, all of this will go to zero if /sys/firmware/acpi/interrupts/gpe06 would be disabled. Note how GPE06 and ACPI are intertwined. They do have a cause and effect.

Also, doing what I suggested earlier to apply acpi=strict noapic kernel arguments:

grubby --args="acpi=strict noapic" --update-kernel=$(ls -t1 /boot/vmlinuz-*.x86_64 | head -1)

... will in fact reduce GPE06 interrupt storm quite a lot:

   RES    SHR S  %CPU  %MEM   TIME+   COMMAND
     0      0 I  10.0   0.0  0:22.92 [kworker/0:1-kacpi_notify]

Storm won't be removed, but drastically reduced. Also, the aluminium case of MBP will be a lot cooler.

However, by running grubby, the changes won't stick. Fedora User Docs, System Administrator’s Guide, Kernel, Module and Driver Configuration, Working with the GRUB 2 Boot Loader tells following:

To reflect the latest system boot options, the boot menu is rebuilt automatically when the kernel is updated or a new kernel is added.

Translation: When you'll install a new kernel. Whatever changes you did with grubby won't stick to the new one. To make things really stick, edit file /etc/default/grub and have line GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX contain these ACPI-changes as before: acpi=strict noapic

Many people are suffering from this same issue. Example: Bug 98501 - [i915][HSW] ACPI GPE06 storm

Even this change won't fix the problem. Lot of CPU-resources are still wasted. When you close the lid for the first time and open it again, this GPE06-storm miraculously disappears. Also what will happen, your next lid open wake will take couple of minutes. It seems the entire Mac is stuck, but it necessarily isn't (sometimes it really is). It just takes a while for the hardware to wake up. Without noapic, it never will. Also, reading the Freedesktop bug-report, there is a hint of problem source being Intel i915 GPU.

Hopefully somebody would direct some development resources to this. Linux on a Mac hardware runs well, besides these sleep/sleep-wake issues.

Back in 2018, Qnap announced to stop supporting my NAS on December 2020. They walked that date back multiple times and at the time of writing, the EOL date is on October 2022. I hope they don't mean it this time, but am afraid they will:

Recent security advisory QSA-22-24 is warning about DeadBolt Ransomware.

The campaign appears to target QNAP NAS devices running Photo Station with internet exposure.

Apparently, if you published your Photo Station photos to public Internet, your NAS-box was at risk of being encrypted and ransom would be required.

This is something similar what happened back in February 2019, see NAS-201902-13 about details of QNAPCrypt / eCh0raix. If you hadn't patched your Qnap and something crawled past the box, it was possible to brute-force their way into it aaaaand encrypt the files aaaand ransom bitcoin to restore the files. See: New eCh0raix Ransomware Brute-Forces QNAP NAS Devices

Apparently running a NAS is becoming more and more demanding. Maybe I have a wrong brand or something?

Few years back I wrote about running Linux on a MacBook Pro. An year ago, the OpenSuse failed to boot on the Mac. Little bit of debugging, I realized the problem isn't in the hardware. That particular kernel update simply didn't work on that particular hardware anymore. Totally fair, who would be stupid enough to attempt using 8 years old laptop. Well, I do.

There aren't that many distros I use and I always wanted to see Fedora Workstation. It booted from USB and also, unlike OpenSuse Leap, it also booted installed. So, ever since I've been running a Fedora Workstation on encrypted root drive.

One glitch, though. It didn't always sleep wake. Quite easily, I found stories of a MBP not sleeping. Here's one: Macbook Pro doesn't suspend properly. Unlike that 2015 model, this 2013 puppy slept ok, but had such deep state, it had major trouble regaining consciousness. Pressing the power for 10 seconds obviously recycled power, but it always felt too much of a cannon for simple task.

Checking what ACPI has at /proc/acpi/wakeup:

Device  S-state   Status   Sysfs node
P0P2      S3    *enabled   pci:0000:00:01.0
PEG1      S3    *disabled
EC        S4    *disabled  platform:PNP0C09:00
GMUX      S3    *disabled  pnp:00:03
HDEF      S3    *disabled  pci:0000:00:1b.0
RP03      S3    *enabled   pci:0000:00:1c.2
ARPT      S4    *disabled  pci:0000:02:00.0
RP04      S3    *enabled   pci:0000:00:1c.3
RP05      S3    *enabled   pci:0000:00:1c.4
XHC1      S3    *enabled   pci:0000:00:14.0
ADP1      S4    *disabled  platform:ACPI0003:00
LID0      S4    *enabled   platform:PNP0C0D:00

For those had-to-sleep -cases, disabling XHC1 and LID0 did help, but made wakeup troublesome. While troubleshooting my issue, I did try if disabling XHC1 and/or LID0 would a difference. It didn't.

Also, I found it very difficult to find any detailed information on what those registered ACPI wakeup -sources translate into. Lid is kinda obvious, but rest remain relatively unknown.

While reading System Sleep States from Intel, a thought occurred to me. Let's make this one hibernate to see if that would work. Sleep semi-worked, but I wanted to see if hibernate was equally unreliable.

Going for systemctl hibernate didn't quite go as well as I expected. It simply resulted in an error of: Failed to hibernate system via logind: Not enough swap space for hibernation

With free, the point was made obvious:

               total        used        free      shared  buff/cache   available
Mem:         8038896     1632760     2424492     1149792     3981644     4994500
Swap:        8038396           0     8038396

For those not aware: Modern Linux systems don't have swap anymore. They have zram instead. If you're really interested, go study zram: Compressed RAM-based block devices.

To verify the previous, running zramctl displayed prettyy much the above information in form of:

NAME       ALGORITHM DISKSIZE DATA COMPR TOTAL STREAMS MOUNTPOINT
/dev/zram0 lzo-rle       7.7G   4K   80B   12K       8 [SWAP]

I finally gave up on that by bumping into article Supporting hibernation in Workstation ed., draft 3. It states following:

The Fedora Workstation working group recognizes hibernation can be useful, but due to impediments it's currently not practical to support it.

Ok ok ok. Got the point, no hibernate.

Looking into sleep wake issue more, I bumped into this thread Ubuntu Processor Power State Management. There a merited user Toz suggested following:

It may be a bit of a stretch, but can you give the following kernel parameters a try:

• acpi=strict
• noapic

I had attempted lots of options, that didn't sound that radical. Finding the active kernel file /boot/vmlinuz-5.18.18-200.fc36.x86_64, then adding mentioned kernel arguments to GRUB2 with: grubby --args=acpi=strict --args=noapic --update-kernel=vmlinuz-5.18.18-200.fc36.x86_64

... aaand a reboot!

To my surprise, it improved the situation. Closing the lid and opening it now works robust. However, that does not solve the problem where battery is nearly running out and I plug the Magsafe. Any power input to the system taints sleep and its back to deep freeze. I'm happy about the improvement, tough.

This is definitely a far fetch, but still: If you have an idea how to fix Linux sleep wake on an ancient Apple-hardware, drop me a comment. I'll be sure to test it out.

For vacation / touristing purposes, I did some travel. When leaving the comfort of EU/ETA-region cell phone mobile data changes into something tricky. Most telcos here in Finland offer you 15 GiB of roaming transfer per month inside EU/ETA. As I travelled into post-brexit UK, the gravity of current roaming agreements hit me. For those unaware (like me on London Heathrow airport): nothing works and if works, expect to pay per-GiB on gold bullions.

At hotel, free Wi-Fi was more than welcome addition to their service offering. With that I was able to figure out what the heck happened to my iPhone data and what measures could I take to enable it.

After weighing all the options, my solution was to purchase an eSIM. That's something I never even considered before. Being in "the spot" I just went for Holafly eSIM. I'm 99,9% sure their offering is not the best nor cheapest, their product simply was easily available. Their marketing must be superb!

List of options considered, but abandoned for different reasons included following:

• Not having data in my phone.
• Relying on public Wi-Fis. They were generally available in many sights and locations.
• Enabling non-EU/ETA data roaming on my subscription.
• Purchasing a prepaid SIM from nearby groceries store. They were generally available, not too expensive and easy to obtain.

This is what I paid with a credit card:

$19 USD. Living in Finland, the country most of the mobile stuff was invented at, the price for unlimited 5 day data was horrible. This is what Holafly delivered me via email:

A QR-code! What! Are eSIMs distributed as QR-codes? Really?
More googling revealed: yes, that's correct. An eSIM is essentially a QR-code.

Payload of above matrix barcode would be as follows:

LPA:1$h3a.prod.ondemandconnectivity.com$8083B8A60025B1BA0E92A460388592035501C61BB74516AB176BA714D64AD60B

Studying the topic more with eSIM Whitepaper - The what and how of Remote SIM Provisioning and How Does an eSIM Work? Acronym LPA from the QR-code stands for Local Profile Assistant. Most stuff encoded into a QR-code I've ever seen has some sort of classifier as the initial value, so having something there would be expected. Next section with $-signs contain a hostname to contact followed by a password to provide for a server answering to requests on mentioned hostname to issue details of my newly purchased subscription for my phone. Host h3a.prod.ondemandconnectivity.com translates into 91.240.72.102, property of Thales group.

After walking through iPhone new data profile wizard, this is what I ended up with:

For unknown reason, the name of my eSIM was "Travel". That's something that can be chosen and renamed, even. Taking a look into the settings of my Travel-profile reveals following:

Whoo! That's an Austrian telco 3 subscription. The name "Drei" is German and means three (3). There are number of subsidiaries on 3 or Hutchison 3G Enterprises S.A.R.L., in case you are unaware of such telco group.

Now that I had mobile data, the obvious first thing was to verify where my Internet exit-node was located at. It seemed, my IPv4-range 91.223.100.0/26 was operated by Nexthop AS from Norway. A closer look on their geo-feed at https://geofeed.wgtwo.com/geofeed.csv revealed two network ranges of /26 or 62 available addresses:

# prefix,country_code,region_code,city,postal
91.223.100.0/26,GB,ENG,London,EC2V
91.209.212.0/26,GB,ENG,London,EC2V

Ultimately I was happy. Everything worked well, my iPhone had data connection for maps, googling, mail and iMessage.

To summarize:

1. My iPhone is designed in California, USA and manufactured in China.
2. I purchased an eSIM from Holafly, a Spanish company.
3. I paid US dollars for the product on their website located in an UK server.
4. What I got delivered from the purchase was credentials to connect to a French server.
5. Response payload of from the French server was an Austrian mobile data subscription.
6. Subscription's public Internet exit was located at United Kingdom, operated by a Norwegian company.

That's what I call an international operation!

PS. If you can hack the above eSIM to work for you, please inform me. It's a pre-paid, so I won't be the one taking the loss.